Poker Table Plans
2021年3月20日Register here: http://gg.gg/oriqo
Always read the poker table plans carefully and make sure that there is enough information provided for you to be able to complete the project - before you invest in materials. Some of the plans are excellent, giving a great deal of instruction in text, pictures and drawings while other plans are only drawings and still others are only sketches. As well, some of the poker table plans, require a woodworking shop that. How to Build a Good Looking Octagon Poker Table on the Cheap: I play a lot of Poker and wanted to build a poker table for when I host games. After perusing a few forums on designs and seeing the costs of the nicer looking ones, which can be a $500 plus, I went my own route. While doing my research I notic. Part 1: Plans and Materials; Part 2: Racetrack; Part 3: Vertical Skirt; Part 4: Subtable and Playing Surface; Part 5: Finishing It Up; This is the first in a series of posts recording my experience building a solid oak, octagon-shaped poker or game table. It will be written as I work on the table, hopefully all within the next few weeks. An octagon poker table is the ideal way to enjoy a night of poker at your home. Every player has a section with room for drinks as well as a good playing surface. Rather than buying an octagon poker table, you can make your own. It doesn’t require extensive knowledge of woodworking but takes time and you do need the proper tools.This page will instruct you on how you can build an eight player poker table step by step. The finished poker table is shown in the photograph below. The table is octogonal and has cut outs to hold cards, poker chips and beverage cups. The board is finished with stain and glossy clearcoat varnish; also the playing surface is covered in felt. All materials are cheap and readily available at any builders providers or hardware store. This table could easily be made over a couple of weekends depending on your woodworking experience and using modest woodworking tools. It would make for a very neat addition to any man cave! I got my poker table plans here.Step 1 - Materials and Tools Materials List and approximate prices:$72$26$21$48$14$16$43$9$3$5$3$5$7$8$5$7$16 $306 Tools I used:
*Circular Saw
*Hand held sander
*Electric Staple Gun
*Plate joiner kitStep 2 - Cutting for each side of octoganFirstly, start with your 6’x8’ 3/4’ thick pine boards. These will be cut into 8 pieces and will form the perimeter of the top surface of the poker table. These will be routered out later to allow space for cups and chips/cards.Step 3 - Cutting edge piece/moldingNext take your 6’x3’ 3/4’ thick long pine boards and using a drop saw or hand saw (with mitre box!)cut them roughly 1’ longer than the longestedge of the 8 pieces that you have just cut in Step 2. These will be nailed and glued along the edge of the table top as a finish molding.Step 4 - Gluing up each side of octoganThe next step will involve nailing and gluing the pieces cut in step 3 to the pieces cut in step 2.I did mention that the pieces cut in step 3 ought to be about 1’ longer than the longest edge of the piece cut in step 2. This difference will be split so that the pieces from step 3 will stick out 1/2’ on each side of each piece (longest edge) from step 2. This was to ensure that there is enough material to trim off at the appropriate angle i.e. flush and inline with edges of the pieces made in step 2. Nails out to be punched below the surface and then later filled with appropriate colored wood filler.Step 5 - Cutting each side to correct length and angleThe next step is to trim up the assembly on both sides such that each edge of the assembly is at the same angle. This is done using the mitre saw. Please ensure that your mitre saw is at the correct angle. Double check to be sure! Run your finger along the cut edge to ensure that the surface is smoothe and the edge of each piece is aligned.The image on the right below shows the desired result.Step 6 - Cutting out for cup holderUsing a hole saw cut a hole wide enough to allow the cup holders to fit snugly.Step 7 - Cutting out for chips storageThe next step involves cutting the rectangular hole out which will allow each player to store his/her chips/cards. I did this by drilling a hole within the outline of the rectangle to allow the jigsaw blade to get started then slowly and carefully cutting out the material. Patience is key here, as I would imagine you want a smooth straight finish. Tip: Clamp a piece of straight edge to run your jigsaw against. This will ensure a very straight cut. This isn’t shown in the diagram by the way.Step 8 - Dry AssemblyAt this stage, all going well, you should have 8 assemblies exactly like that in the picture above on the right. It would make very good sense at this stage to dry fit the assembly to ensure that all edges join up with no gaps, if you what I mean. They then can joined permanently.Step 9 - Gluing up final assemblyAssuming that step 8 went well, the next step will be to cut out holes for the biscuits using the jointer and then gluing up the assembly. The pieces will be held together using clamps in the positions shown on the image on the right below.Once the glue has dried, the two halves are then glued together on the flat as shown below in the picture.Step 10 - Cut plywood baseThe next step is to cut the plywood base onto which the assembly above will sit. Using the octagon ring made in step 9, measure the inside diameter and this will give you the measurement to mark out the outline of the base onto a sheet of plywood. I actually had to join two plywood sheets together as one would not suffice. It’s all about measuring twice and cutting once here!Step 11 - Cutting out for cup-holders in plywood baseThe holes for the cup holders will now be cut out in the plywood base. This is done by fitting the top octagon ring (from step 9) to the plywood base (from step 10) and then using the top holes as a guide for the hole saw to cut holes into the plywood base.Step 12 - Router the top edgesTo give the table top a nice appearance I rounded all the edges with a router and a rounding bit.Paying particular attention to the joints, I sanded all the surfaces with 120 grit paper on a hand held sander. I finished off the sanding with a 220 grit sandpaper. The surface was very smooth at this stage ready for stain and a finish. But that will come later. Next to cut out the centre octagon.Step 13 - Cut out centre octagonNext, the centre octagon (play surface) is cut out and wrapped up with felt. This piece is cut using a 4’ x 4’ sheet of 3/4’ birch plywood. Remembering that batting & felt will be wrapped around this piece it is important that there roughly a 1/8’ gap all around to allow for the thickness of the felt.The batting is glued to the plywood using a spray adhesive. The edges are then wrapped around the edges and stapled to the other side. The same is done when gluing the felt (green) to the batting.Step 13 - Making the foot of the table.The foot of the table is simply a plywood octagon which can be made to any width you desire. Mine was made 5/6 the width of the octagon centre piece mad in step 13.Step 14 - Making the pedestalThe pedestal is the base onto which the table top rests. The pedestal consists of an upper pedestal and a lower pedestal. The upper pedestal slides over the bottom pedestal such that the table can be easily dis-assembled and transported from one place to another.The top (&bottom) pedestal is square and is made from 3/4’ plywood. The pedestal is nailed and glued together.The bottom pedestal is constructed in the same way as the top pedestal but is nailed to the plywood foot. This is shown in the photos below.Both the top and bottom pedestal edges are finished with a pine trim.Step 15 - FinishingThe next step involves staining all surfaces that will be visible when the table is fully assembled.All surfaces are given a sanding firstly with 120 grit sand paper and then secondly a rub with 220 grit sandpaper. All surfaces and brushed and rub with a tack cloth to remove any dust.Uneven staining is a common problem when staining softwoods like pine, thus the wood is first preconditioned to allow the stain to stain the wood more evenly. The stain is allowed to dry, lightly sanded and rubbed with a tack cloth. The wood is then given a coat of polyurethane.Step 16 - Attaching the top pedestal to the plywood basePoker Table Plans With RacetrackOnce the polyurethane has dried you can now proceed to attach the top pedestal to the plywood base.On the underside of the plywood base mark out a section in the middle and apply glue. For extra security the top pedestal is screwed to the plywood wood base.Step 17 - Cutting & gluing fabric in chip holder cut outThe table is assembled. The octagon ring will give the correct positions for the batting and felt cut outs. The method of securing the batting to the plywood base and then the felt to the batting is identical to the method used in step 13.Once the fabric fitting is complete lay the octagon ring on top.Step 18 - Ready to Play some Poker?The table is ready for some fun nights of poker playing with friends or family.I hoped that you have realised just how easy it is to make your own poker table. I used some plans that I bought online and they were well worth it. I have had many a fun night poker with my buddies, you can too. With a felt top, chip compartments, and built-in drink coasters, this poker table is a sure bet.
What could be more enjoyable than pulling a chair up to this classic poker table for a game of cards with a few friends? But that will come later. First, you’ll get to take on the challenge of building the table. With all the features you see above — felt playing surface, builtin coasters, veneered trim, and the great-looking pedestal base, you might think this project would be pretty difficult to build. And I’ll admit, there are a few things here that will expand your skills. But even with all the extras, it goes together surprisingly easy. To streamline the job, I used premade parts to build the base. This allows you to focus your efforts on the all-important top. You’ll find the key here is simply taking on the job in small steps. And the table doesn’t need to be limited to poker games. Add the optional wood cover, and it’s a great table for any use. SELECT YOUR PLAN PACKAGE Poker Table Plans PdfUnitImperial $15.95 Learn more Metric (unavailable) Learn more What You Get:
*18 pages of step-by-step instructions
*80 full-color photos and illustrations
*Cutting Diagram and Materials List
*Hardware and Supplies Sources Note: After your purchase, you will receive an email containing a PDF attachment of your purchased plan, as well as instructions for logging in to download the plan and access any other associated files and videos, which will all be located on this page. Product Recommendations
We don’t have any links to project supplies and hardware for this particular project yet, but here are some other products that might be of interest to you. (We may receive commission when you use our affiliate links. However, this does not impact our recommendations.) FREE WOODSMITH PLANS Similar Woodsmith PlansImperial Plans
The United States Customary System of Units (USCS or USC), more commonly referred to as the English or Imperial system, is the standard set of units for our plans. It uses inches and feet for measurement. This is the one you probably want if you are in the United States, and it is the one we have traditionally offered on this website. Metric Plans
The International System of Units (SI), more commonly referred to as the metric system, is the alternative set of units that we have available for some of our plans. It uses millimeters, centimeters, and meters for measurement. This is the one you probably want if you are outside the United States. These plans are provided by our business partner, Australian Woodsmith, and are based on the original Woodsmith plan. However, dimensions and other elements of the plan may vary between the metric and standard versions. Be sure to double-check the plan before building. Premium Plans
All of the information that you need to build our plans can be found in the standard plan. However, if you want even more granular detail to make your job easier, you should consider our premium plans. These come with additional shop diagrams that we drew when creating the prototypes. Shop drawings are not available for every plan. Affiliate Link
Since you are an affiliate, you can use this url to link people to this page and get credited for it:
If you want to use an image thumbnail link, you can copy and paste something like this into the source code of your page:
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Register here: http://gg.gg/oriqo
https://diarynote-jp.indered.space
Always read the poker table plans carefully and make sure that there is enough information provided for you to be able to complete the project - before you invest in materials. Some of the plans are excellent, giving a great deal of instruction in text, pictures and drawings while other plans are only drawings and still others are only sketches. As well, some of the poker table plans, require a woodworking shop that. How to Build a Good Looking Octagon Poker Table on the Cheap: I play a lot of Poker and wanted to build a poker table for when I host games. After perusing a few forums on designs and seeing the costs of the nicer looking ones, which can be a $500 plus, I went my own route. While doing my research I notic. Part 1: Plans and Materials; Part 2: Racetrack; Part 3: Vertical Skirt; Part 4: Subtable and Playing Surface; Part 5: Finishing It Up; This is the first in a series of posts recording my experience building a solid oak, octagon-shaped poker or game table. It will be written as I work on the table, hopefully all within the next few weeks. An octagon poker table is the ideal way to enjoy a night of poker at your home. Every player has a section with room for drinks as well as a good playing surface. Rather than buying an octagon poker table, you can make your own. It doesn’t require extensive knowledge of woodworking but takes time and you do need the proper tools.This page will instruct you on how you can build an eight player poker table step by step. The finished poker table is shown in the photograph below. The table is octogonal and has cut outs to hold cards, poker chips and beverage cups. The board is finished with stain and glossy clearcoat varnish; also the playing surface is covered in felt. All materials are cheap and readily available at any builders providers or hardware store. This table could easily be made over a couple of weekends depending on your woodworking experience and using modest woodworking tools. It would make for a very neat addition to any man cave! I got my poker table plans here.Step 1 - Materials and Tools Materials List and approximate prices:$72$26$21$48$14$16$43$9$3$5$3$5$7$8$5$7$16 $306 Tools I used:
*Circular Saw
*Hand held sander
*Electric Staple Gun
*Plate joiner kitStep 2 - Cutting for each side of octoganFirstly, start with your 6’x8’ 3/4’ thick pine boards. These will be cut into 8 pieces and will form the perimeter of the top surface of the poker table. These will be routered out later to allow space for cups and chips/cards.Step 3 - Cutting edge piece/moldingNext take your 6’x3’ 3/4’ thick long pine boards and using a drop saw or hand saw (with mitre box!)cut them roughly 1’ longer than the longestedge of the 8 pieces that you have just cut in Step 2. These will be nailed and glued along the edge of the table top as a finish molding.Step 4 - Gluing up each side of octoganThe next step will involve nailing and gluing the pieces cut in step 3 to the pieces cut in step 2.I did mention that the pieces cut in step 3 ought to be about 1’ longer than the longest edge of the piece cut in step 2. This difference will be split so that the pieces from step 3 will stick out 1/2’ on each side of each piece (longest edge) from step 2. This was to ensure that there is enough material to trim off at the appropriate angle i.e. flush and inline with edges of the pieces made in step 2. Nails out to be punched below the surface and then later filled with appropriate colored wood filler.Step 5 - Cutting each side to correct length and angleThe next step is to trim up the assembly on both sides such that each edge of the assembly is at the same angle. This is done using the mitre saw. Please ensure that your mitre saw is at the correct angle. Double check to be sure! Run your finger along the cut edge to ensure that the surface is smoothe and the edge of each piece is aligned.The image on the right below shows the desired result.Step 6 - Cutting out for cup holderUsing a hole saw cut a hole wide enough to allow the cup holders to fit snugly.Step 7 - Cutting out for chips storageThe next step involves cutting the rectangular hole out which will allow each player to store his/her chips/cards. I did this by drilling a hole within the outline of the rectangle to allow the jigsaw blade to get started then slowly and carefully cutting out the material. Patience is key here, as I would imagine you want a smooth straight finish. Tip: Clamp a piece of straight edge to run your jigsaw against. This will ensure a very straight cut. This isn’t shown in the diagram by the way.Step 8 - Dry AssemblyAt this stage, all going well, you should have 8 assemblies exactly like that in the picture above on the right. It would make very good sense at this stage to dry fit the assembly to ensure that all edges join up with no gaps, if you what I mean. They then can joined permanently.Step 9 - Gluing up final assemblyAssuming that step 8 went well, the next step will be to cut out holes for the biscuits using the jointer and then gluing up the assembly. The pieces will be held together using clamps in the positions shown on the image on the right below.Once the glue has dried, the two halves are then glued together on the flat as shown below in the picture.Step 10 - Cut plywood baseThe next step is to cut the plywood base onto which the assembly above will sit. Using the octagon ring made in step 9, measure the inside diameter and this will give you the measurement to mark out the outline of the base onto a sheet of plywood. I actually had to join two plywood sheets together as one would not suffice. It’s all about measuring twice and cutting once here!Step 11 - Cutting out for cup-holders in plywood baseThe holes for the cup holders will now be cut out in the plywood base. This is done by fitting the top octagon ring (from step 9) to the plywood base (from step 10) and then using the top holes as a guide for the hole saw to cut holes into the plywood base.Step 12 - Router the top edgesTo give the table top a nice appearance I rounded all the edges with a router and a rounding bit.Paying particular attention to the joints, I sanded all the surfaces with 120 grit paper on a hand held sander. I finished off the sanding with a 220 grit sandpaper. The surface was very smooth at this stage ready for stain and a finish. But that will come later. Next to cut out the centre octagon.Step 13 - Cut out centre octagonNext, the centre octagon (play surface) is cut out and wrapped up with felt. This piece is cut using a 4’ x 4’ sheet of 3/4’ birch plywood. Remembering that batting & felt will be wrapped around this piece it is important that there roughly a 1/8’ gap all around to allow for the thickness of the felt.The batting is glued to the plywood using a spray adhesive. The edges are then wrapped around the edges and stapled to the other side. The same is done when gluing the felt (green) to the batting.Step 13 - Making the foot of the table.The foot of the table is simply a plywood octagon which can be made to any width you desire. Mine was made 5/6 the width of the octagon centre piece mad in step 13.Step 14 - Making the pedestalThe pedestal is the base onto which the table top rests. The pedestal consists of an upper pedestal and a lower pedestal. The upper pedestal slides over the bottom pedestal such that the table can be easily dis-assembled and transported from one place to another.The top (&bottom) pedestal is square and is made from 3/4’ plywood. The pedestal is nailed and glued together.The bottom pedestal is constructed in the same way as the top pedestal but is nailed to the plywood foot. This is shown in the photos below.Both the top and bottom pedestal edges are finished with a pine trim.Step 15 - FinishingThe next step involves staining all surfaces that will be visible when the table is fully assembled.All surfaces are given a sanding firstly with 120 grit sand paper and then secondly a rub with 220 grit sandpaper. All surfaces and brushed and rub with a tack cloth to remove any dust.Uneven staining is a common problem when staining softwoods like pine, thus the wood is first preconditioned to allow the stain to stain the wood more evenly. The stain is allowed to dry, lightly sanded and rubbed with a tack cloth. The wood is then given a coat of polyurethane.Step 16 - Attaching the top pedestal to the plywood basePoker Table Plans With RacetrackOnce the polyurethane has dried you can now proceed to attach the top pedestal to the plywood base.On the underside of the plywood base mark out a section in the middle and apply glue. For extra security the top pedestal is screwed to the plywood wood base.Step 17 - Cutting & gluing fabric in chip holder cut outThe table is assembled. The octagon ring will give the correct positions for the batting and felt cut outs. The method of securing the batting to the plywood base and then the felt to the batting is identical to the method used in step 13.Once the fabric fitting is complete lay the octagon ring on top.Step 18 - Ready to Play some Poker?The table is ready for some fun nights of poker playing with friends or family.I hoped that you have realised just how easy it is to make your own poker table. I used some plans that I bought online and they were well worth it. I have had many a fun night poker with my buddies, you can too. With a felt top, chip compartments, and built-in drink coasters, this poker table is a sure bet.
What could be more enjoyable than pulling a chair up to this classic poker table for a game of cards with a few friends? But that will come later. First, you’ll get to take on the challenge of building the table. With all the features you see above — felt playing surface, builtin coasters, veneered trim, and the great-looking pedestal base, you might think this project would be pretty difficult to build. And I’ll admit, there are a few things here that will expand your skills. But even with all the extras, it goes together surprisingly easy. To streamline the job, I used premade parts to build the base. This allows you to focus your efforts on the all-important top. You’ll find the key here is simply taking on the job in small steps. And the table doesn’t need to be limited to poker games. Add the optional wood cover, and it’s a great table for any use. SELECT YOUR PLAN PACKAGE Poker Table Plans PdfUnitImperial $15.95 Learn more Metric (unavailable) Learn more What You Get:
*18 pages of step-by-step instructions
*80 full-color photos and illustrations
*Cutting Diagram and Materials List
*Hardware and Supplies Sources Note: After your purchase, you will receive an email containing a PDF attachment of your purchased plan, as well as instructions for logging in to download the plan and access any other associated files and videos, which will all be located on this page. Product Recommendations
We don’t have any links to project supplies and hardware for this particular project yet, but here are some other products that might be of interest to you. (We may receive commission when you use our affiliate links. However, this does not impact our recommendations.) FREE WOODSMITH PLANS Similar Woodsmith PlansImperial Plans
The United States Customary System of Units (USCS or USC), more commonly referred to as the English or Imperial system, is the standard set of units for our plans. It uses inches and feet for measurement. This is the one you probably want if you are in the United States, and it is the one we have traditionally offered on this website. Metric Plans
The International System of Units (SI), more commonly referred to as the metric system, is the alternative set of units that we have available for some of our plans. It uses millimeters, centimeters, and meters for measurement. This is the one you probably want if you are outside the United States. These plans are provided by our business partner, Australian Woodsmith, and are based on the original Woodsmith plan. However, dimensions and other elements of the plan may vary between the metric and standard versions. Be sure to double-check the plan before building. Premium Plans
All of the information that you need to build our plans can be found in the standard plan. However, if you want even more granular detail to make your job easier, you should consider our premium plans. These come with additional shop diagrams that we drew when creating the prototypes. Shop drawings are not available for every plan. Affiliate Link
Since you are an affiliate, you can use this url to link people to this page and get credited for it:
If you want to use an image thumbnail link, you can copy and paste something like this into the source code of your page:
Affiliate link unavailable.
Register here: http://gg.gg/oriqo
https://diarynote-jp.indered.space
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